{"id":16001,"date":"2025-10-15T20:26:55","date_gmt":"2025-10-15T19:26:55","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/londonpost.news\/?p=16001"},"modified":"2025-10-18T12:36:13","modified_gmt":"2025-10-18T11:36:13","slug":"a-conversation-in-montmartre-kim-doeun-on-korean-nobility-a-16th-century-manuscript-and-building-bridges-with-european-palates","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/brusselsindependent.com\/be\/news\/a-conversation-in-montmartre-kim-doeun-on-korean-nobility-a-16th-century-manuscript-and-building-bridges-with-european-palates\/2025\/10\/15\/admin1\/","title":{"rendered":"Kim Doeun on Korean Nobility, Building Bridges with European Palates"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>By <strong>Raza Syed<\/strong> (Paris,France)<\/p>\n<p class=\"ds-markdown-paragraph\">The <strong>Montmartre Harvest Festival<\/strong>, Paris. The air is filled with the scent of wine, autumn leaves, and roasting chestnuts. At the <strong>Republic of Korea<\/strong> pavilion, <strong>Ms. Kim Doeun<\/strong> presides over a tasting of<strong> Andong Hanwoo bulgogi<\/strong>, her demeanor a calm counterpoint to the festive energy.<\/p>\n<p><iframe title=\"Chef Ms Kim&#039;s Interview\" width=\"696\" height=\"392\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/torZ_vCRjfI?feature=oembed\" frameborder=\"0\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share\" referrerpolicy=\"strict-origin-when-cross-origin\" allowfullscreen><\/iframe><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<hr \/>\n<p class=\"ds-markdown-paragraph\"><strong>Brussels Independent:<\/strong>\u00a0Ms. Kim, thank you for making time. You\u2019re here representing both Korea and your hometown, Andong. What is the core message you\u2019ve brought to Paris this year?<\/p>\n<p class=\"ds-markdown-paragraph\"><strong>Ms. Kim Doeun:<\/strong>\u00a0The message is one of refinement and dignity. Abroad, Korean food is often seen as quick, bold street food\u2014which is wonderful in its own right\u2014but that\u2019s only one part of the story. In Andong, we are the guardians of the\u00a0<em>yangban<\/em>\u00a0nobility cuisine, traditions preserved in written records like the\u00a0<em>Suwun Japbang<\/em>. This isn&#8217;t just food; it&#8217;s a pillar of our national identity, and it deserves to be shared with the depth it embodies.<\/p>\n<p class=\"ds-markdown-paragraph\"><strong>LP:<\/strong>\u00a0You mention\u00a0<em>Suwun Japbang<\/em>. For our readers who may not know, what is this text, and what is your personal connection to it?<\/p>\n<p class=\"ds-markdown-paragraph\"><strong>Ms. Kim:<\/strong>\u00a0(Her eyes light up)\u00a0<em>Suwun Japbang<\/em>\u00a0is a family treasure, a household compendium from the mid-15th century that has been passed down through my family for generations. It\u2019s more than a cookbook. It contains preservation techniques, seasonal wisdom, rituals, and etiquette. There\u2019s even a family legend that it was once buried in the earth during turbulent times to protect it. That speaks to the profound commitment to heritage it represents.<\/p>\n<p class=\"ds-markdown-paragraph\">As a daughter-in-law in the\u00a0<em>jongga<\/em>\u00a0[hereditary family] system, I have inherited the responsibility for this text. One day, my own daughter-in-law will do the same. It\u2019s a matrilineal chain of custody, not unlike the artisan guild traditions here in Europe, where knowledge is passed from master to apprentice, generation to generation.<\/p>\n<p class=\"ds-markdown-paragraph\"><strong>LP:<\/strong>\u00a0And how does that living tradition translate to the tasting counter here? I can smell the wonderful aroma of the bulgogi.<\/p>\n<p class=\"ds-markdown-paragraph\"><strong>Ms. Kim:<\/strong>\u00a0Exactly. This is Andong Hanwoo bulgogi. In\u00a0<em>Suwun Japbang<\/em>, we find recipes for braised beef that honor the ingredient&#8217;s inherent quality. So today, we use soy sauce and sesame oil not to overwhelm, but to amplify the beef&#8217;s natural essence. I think this challenges a common preconception.<\/p>\n<div class=\"youtube-embed\" data-video_id=\"Kj-cHpiWwZE\"><iframe title=\"Andong\u2019s Five-Hundred-Year Flavour\" width=\"696\" height=\"392\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/Kj-cHpiWwZE?feature=oembed&#038;enablejsapi=1\" frameborder=\"0\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share\" referrerpolicy=\"strict-origin-when-cross-origin\" allowfullscreen><\/iframe><\/div>\n<p class=\"ds-markdown-paragraph\"><strong>LP:<\/strong>\u00a0Which is?<\/p>\n<p class=\"ds-markdown-paragraph\"><strong>Ms. Kim:<\/strong>\u00a0That Korean food is only about intense spice. While that is one beloved aspect, Korea shares with Europe a deep reverence for the ingredient itself. We value unexaggerated authenticity. This marbled Hanwoo beef, with its tender richness, doesn&#8217;t need to hide behind heat. It invites thoughtful pairings, much like a fine cut of meat here in France would.<\/p>\n<p class=\"ds-markdown-paragraph\"><strong>LP:<\/strong>\u00a0You\u2019ve been coming to this festival for three years now. How has the conversation evolved?<\/p>\n<p class=\"ds-markdown-paragraph\"><strong>Ms. Kim:<\/strong>\u00a0Profoundly. In year one, it was about simple visibility\u2014&#8221;Here is Korean food.&#8221; Now, it&#8217;s about understanding. We\u2019ve moved from just tasting to conversing through flavors. I\u2019ve learned which corners of Montmartre have the perfect Burgundy red or Loire white to complement our dishes. The festival is a celebration of pairing, and\u00a0<em>Suwun Japbang<\/em>\u00a0is, at its heart, a guide for such unions. There&#8217;s a beautiful synergy when a restrained soy-based dish meets a high-acid wine; it creates an elegant dialogue.<\/p>\n<p class=\"ds-markdown-paragraph\"><strong>LP:<\/strong>\u00a0So what are the visible outcomes of this deeper engagement?<\/p>\n<p class=\"ds-markdown-paragraph\"><strong>Ms. Kim:<\/strong>\u00a0We see it in the media narratives shifting from calling our food &#8220;exotic&#8221; to exploring its heritage and philosophy. We&#8217;re building networks with European cookery schools and wine academies. There&#8217;s interest in tourism ties\u2014linking a visit to Andong with household immersions, stories from the\u00a0<em>Suwun Japbang<\/em>, and wine classes. It&#8217;s becoming a true cultural exchange.<\/p>\n<p class=\"ds-markdown-paragraph\"><strong>LP:<\/strong>\u00a0For a European, how would you frame the essence of Andong&#8217;s cuisine to make it relatable?<\/p>\n<p class=\"ds-markdown-paragraph\"><strong>Ms. Kim:<\/strong>\u00a0I would frame it as\u00a0<em>terroir<\/em>\u2014a philosophy of place, time, and community.\u00a0<em>Suwun Japbang<\/em>\u00a0embodies ethics of fermentation, moderation, and balance. Andong\u2019s unique waters, grains, and climate craft the taste. Five centuries of written records layer the culinary depth. And the daughter-in-law lineage provides the communal warmth. Through this lens, Korea&#8217;s noble table is not so distant from France&#8217;s own vineyard traditions.<\/p>\n<p class=\"ds-markdown-paragraph\"><strong>LP:<\/strong>\u00a0Looking to the future, what bridges do you hope to build next?<\/p>\n<p class=\"ds-markdown-paragraph\"><strong>Ms. Kim:<\/strong>\u00a0The ideas are flowing! We envision &#8220;<em>Suwun Japbang<\/em>\u00a0\u00d7 Wine&#8221; tasting events, pairing low-salt soy menus with tannic wines, with the pairings annotated by excerpts from the text. We\u2019d love residencies and study tours, exchanging French sommeliers and Korean chefs. Perhaps exhibitions showcasing the &#8220;buried book&#8221; story, or scholarly projects like bilingual editions. For tourists, we dream of modules like &#8220;An Andong Table Experience&#8221;\u2014Confucian homestays, curated dinners, and ritual music.<\/p>\n<p class=\"ds-markdown-paragraph\"><strong>LP:<\/strong>\u00a0As we conclude, amidst all this vibrant energy, what is the final thought you hope visitors take from your pavilion?<\/p>\n<p class=\"ds-markdown-paragraph\"><strong>Ms. Kim:<\/strong>\u00a0(Smiling softly) That Korean and European foods, while different, are not as distant as one might think. We are whispering here, not shouting, prioritizing texture and depth over spectacle. Here,\u00a0<em>Suwun Japbang<\/em> transcends its pages to become a shared table. As Montmartre&#8217;s wines age gracefully, so, I hope, will Andong\u2019s legacy deepen in European hearts\u2014fostered at a patient, harmonious tempo.<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>By Raza Syed (Paris,France) The Montmartre Harvest Festival, Paris. The air is filled with the scent of wine, autumn leaves, and roasting chestnuts. At the Republic of Korea pavilion, Ms. Kim Doeun presides over a tasting of Andong Hanwoo bulgogi, her demeanor a calm counterpoint to the festive energy. &nbsp; Brussels Independent:\u00a0Ms. Kim, thank you [&hellip;]<\/p>","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":16003,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"tdm_status":"","tdm_grid_status":""},"categories":[779,2396,2437],"tags":[546,3709,8680,9287],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/brusselsindependent.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/10\/Ms.Kim_.jpg","amp_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/brusselsindependent.com\/be\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/16001"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/brusselsindependent.com\/be\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/brusselsindependent.com\/be\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/brusselsindependent.com\/be\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/brusselsindependent.com\/be\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=16001"}],"version-history":[{"count":3,"href":"https:\/\/brusselsindependent.com\/be\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/16001\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":16236,"href":"https:\/\/brusselsindependent.com\/be\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/16001\/revisions\/16236"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/brusselsindependent.com\/be\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/16003"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/brusselsindependent.com\/be\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=16001"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/brusselsindependent.com\/be\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=16001"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/brusselsindependent.com\/be\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=16001"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}